A Journey to Greece and Anatolia
Dr. Dickran Kouymjian
A remarkable Greek-American-Armenian adventure began in December
2002 when Armenian Studies was called to a meeting with Richard
Jackson, President of the American College in Thessaloniki, Greece.
It was Pres. Jacksons second visit to our campus and as Barlow
Der Mugrdechian and I found out, our President, John Welty, had
visited Thessaloniki along with Dr. Berta Gonzalez head of our University
exchange programs.
The remarkable aspect of that meeting was discovering that the American
College, known as ACT for short, was once Anatolia College in Marsovan,
Turkey, transferred after the Genocide (1923-4) to Greece by the
Missionary Board. My mother had always told me and my brother Armen,
that her father, Dikran Calusdian, after whom I was named, had been
a teacher at Marsovan College. A packet of material, some in Armenian,
on ACT offered to us by Richard Jackson had in it a photocopy of
Anatolia College faculty with Xs marking those who had been killed
during the Genocide. When I saw, I said, spotting one young professor
with a closely cropped full beard, That looks like my grandfather!
During the meeting in Dr. Gonzalezs office we discussed various
exchange proposals between CSUF and ACT and Pres. Jackson also spoke
of a Michael Dukakis Fellowship that brought visiting scholars to
Thessaloniki. I expressed an interest if my schedule allowed such
a visit. He promised to check on my grandfathers name in the
archives of the school. A month later I was given a Dukakis Fellowship
to lecture in Thessaloniki.
The twelve day adventure was full of surprises and lots of work.
The forty acre campus of the American College, on the heights overlooking
Greeces second city, with its magnificent port, is up in the
hills just above the city. The space is now shared by two institutions
with a single president: Anatolia College, a junior high and high
school, the successor to the original one in Marsovan (Mersifon
as the Greeks called it) and a four year liberal arts college, ACT,
started 25 years ago by the then president Dr. William McGrew.
I gave my first guest lecture to combined Modern History classes
on Armenia and Armenians in Modern Historical Perspective.
I tried to compare modern Armenian history with modern Greek history
and spent sometime explaining the genocide and its consequences.
Just after, at about 9 PM there was a formal reception for us at
the Presidents house with some of the administration and members
of the Armenian community of Thessaloniki. We were told there were
still some 2-3,000 Armenians in Thessaloniki and we did visit the
church in the center of town; apparently twice that many new comers
recently arrived from Armenia.
Monday morning, after a weekend touring the monasteries of the Meteora,
began with a lecture to an American College art history class on
early Armenian architecture and its comparison to the early Byzantine
architecture of Thessaloniki, especially to the early churches of
St. Demetrius and St. George. In the early evening I was invited
to present a paper to the Liberal Arts Faculty Colloquium on the
subject When Does a Genocide End? The Armenian Case.
The two-hour affair also included a lively discussion session.
Wednesday was crowded with activities on and off campus in order
for us to be free to tour around on our last two days. In the morning
I led a class in Anatolia College of seventh and eighth graders
on William Saroyan. Someone had heard that I had known the writer
and coincidentally the English literature class was reading a story
The Miraculous Phonograph Record, included in their
English reader with the usual explanatory notes for students studying
English as their second language.
In the early afternoon, one of the more unusual episodes unfolded
around an old manuscript. Shortly upon our arrival, we were told
by Richard Jackson and others about a rare medieval Armenian Bible,
a treasure of the Anatolia College, kept in a safe on campus. I
was asked if I would look at it and provide more information than
the school had, of course I agreed with pleasure. I finally got
to see the book and immediately reported that it was a Gospel book,
not of the 11th-12th century as believed, but certainly of the 17th
century or slightly later. I made a formal presentation of the manuscript
to a group of Armenian students, adults and interested faculty,
and used the occasion to give those present an illustrated lecture
on how early Christian Gospels were copied, organized, and illustrated.
After the slide show we all huddled in the conference room around
the manuscript (with a modern red leather binding) and I started
turning the pages one by one, explaining section by section, the
work and its illustrations.
In the evening we were taken to the new Byzantine Museum for a lecture
jointly sponsored by the Museum, ACT, and the local Armenian Hamaskaine
Cultural Association. I gave a slide presentation on the miniatures
of the Armenian version of the History Alexander the Great and the
origins of its iconography. I centered much of the talk on the oldest
illustrated Armenian version from the late 13th or early 14th century
manuscript now with the Mekhitarist Fathers on the Island of San
Lazzaro in Venice and compared them to the Greek tradition.
We came with expectation and left with joy in our hearts, excited
that I too had taught in the same institution that I had always
believed my maternal grandfather had been a teacher in before he
was killed during the first weeks of the Genocide of 1915. The American
College is a wonderful place. The graciousness of the administration
and faculty, the beauty of the campus, its long academic tradition
and its fine facilities, the open friendliness of the Greeks and
the Mediterranean life style, make ACT a perfect institution for
our CSUF students interested in studying abroad or for our Fresno
State faculty to visit and lecture at.