Ara Sarafian Offers New Ideas in Talk on Monasteries Near Lake Van

PATEEL MEKHITARIAN
Staff Writer

Ara Sarafian, left, with Barlow Der Mugrdechian

The Armenian Studies Program and the Armenian Students Organization sponsored a fascinating lecture by Ara Sarafian, a historian and the director of the Gomidas Institute (London), on September 20, 2007. Sarafian has been working on on-going projects in Turkey for over twenty years.

Sarafian’s lecture was on “Disappearing Armenian Monasteries in Turkey: The Lake Van Basin.” The topic was very interesting, as Sarafian detailed his systematic research in the Lake Van area, Kharpert, and Trabizond. Conventional wisdom is that everything was destroyed in the Armenian Genocide of 1915. However, Sarafian presented evidence that some churches and monasteries are still standing, albeit in poor condition. In fact, some of that deterioration probably took place only in the last ten years. For this reason, Sarafian continually encouraged people to get involved and see what can be done to help preserve the remaining monasteries.

Sarafian believes that the problem of disappearing Armenian monasteries in Turkey should be brought to the attention of the authorities in Turkey. An example of where the Turkish authorities did take action, was in the renovation work of the monastery of Akhtamar, a major departure of Turkish policy. The completion of the project took place in 2007.

In order to preserve the existing monasteries and possibly reconstruct or renovate the damaged ones, communication with Turkish authorities is essential. Unfortunately, only 10% of the monasteries that once existed, still stand, and 90% have been either severely damaged, or completely destroyed, to the extent that it is difficult to find their original locations. Restoration of the Armenian churches and monasteries is essential in maintaining the rich history of the Armenians in Turkey.

For the Turkish government and the local Kurds, restoration of churches and monasteries would result in increasing numbers of tourists visiting the area, and thus an increase in income.

Sarafian showed images from four monasteries to illustrate his point.

Richard Elbrecht of Sacramento set up a photographic display of images taken in the Lake Van region. Richard and his wife Anne have been visiting Turkey for more than twenty years and their collection of photographs is valuable documentation of the region.

The village of Varents is an abandoned area of Turkey, near the island of Akhtamar, where no one has lived for 80-90 years. In this abandoned land, an altar from the monastery still stands, but everything else has been destroyed. There is a cemetery near the once existing church, with khatchkars (stone-crosses) and family gravestones. Unfortunately grave-robbing is a common activity that occurs in areas where there are no people.

Saint Thomas, a 10th century church, perched on a mountain-top, is another example of destruction and damage. There are numerous holes in the church walls and dome, leaving the Church close to collapse. Some fifty to seventy khatchkars once existed in the area, but all have since disappeared. There is also evidence of disturbed graves in the area.

Garmir Vank (Red Monastery) is another 10th century church, which today also exhibits holes in the dome. When photographed in the 1970’s, there was no damage, indicating the damage was done recently.

Sourp Nishan, a functioning monastery before 1915, is currently unrecognizable. There are now just a few stones that remain where the church once stood. There is a road, which was built that goes directly through the area of the monastery.

Another site was discussed by Sarafian, the “Seljuk Park,” an old cemetery in Van. There is an Armenian influenced Seljuk Turkish mausoleum, which is well maintained in that area. The mausoleum has definite stylistic connections to traditional Armenian domes. This is selective preservation. Why are the Armenian monasteries destroyed and the Turkish buildings still standing? Protection and maintenance is possible, if the people of Turkey are interested. Unfortunately, at this point in time, maintaining the monasteries is not appealing to the authorities.

In addition to talking about the disappearing monasteries, Sarafian also shared his experience of visiting the Van Museum. The museum, which is currently closed for “renovation,” contains some small artifacts of Turkish history, such as Ottoman cannons. At one time the museum had an exhibit on the “Turkish Genocide.” However, the museum was closed two years ago and has not reopened, perhaps because the “exhibit” is an embarrassment to the current regime. Sarafian noticed something very interesting-there were many Armenian historical artifacts scattered around the museum grounds, such as Armenian khatchkars with Armenian writing, stones from the Urartian period with cuneiform writing that also had Armenian writing, and even a statue of an Armenian clergymen.

Sarafian’s assertion is that there is a chance for an opening with the Turkish government, and that the Armenians should open a dialogue with Turkish authorities, to reclaim the lost Armenian heritage.

The lecture given by Ara Sarafian was very educational and eye-opening. Help is needed in preserving the traditional history of the Armenians, in Turkish territory. Continuous maintenance is essential in preventing the complete destruction of the few remaining monasteries in the Lake Van region. According to Sarafian it is the responsibility of Armenians to keep Armenian history alive, before it is completely erased.